60s-70s, Y2K style and Maximalism, etc. have become a great source of creative inspiration for fashion houses when returning to the traditional runway in the last Spring-Summer 2022 Fashion Month.
Fashion month has just ended with the last show in Paris, still bustling and rhythmically rotating through the 4 major cities as it was before the pandemic hit in March 2020. Lots of inspiration from the decades. 60s and 70s swept the catwalks, the gorgeous supermodels of the 90s took over the spotlight… Are fashion houses nostalgic for the past to find inspiration for the future?
NEW YORK REVIVED
New York Fashion Week Fashion Week officially returns to the IRL (in real life) show form thanks to the great efforts of the American Fashion Association CFDA and perhaps even Anna Wintour to prove to the world that Time is right. American page has never been as vibrant and full of life as it is now. New York this season welcomes the return of “pets”, first of all, designer Tom Ford – President of CFDA after a period of time choosing Los Angeles as the place of performance.
Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra and even Thom Browne also returned to New York after trying their hand at the big playground in Paris. Rodarte also reappeared with a colorful show bearing the familiar narrative of the two Mulleavy sisters.
However, New York is still absent from the big names that have contributed to the highlight of NYFW with grand fashion parties such as Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren. And if you are observant, you will also see that all three of these “big guys” did not appear at Anna Wintour’s Met Gala party that took place right before NYFK ended. Notable young brands such as Pyer Moss, Telfar also decided to skip this event. Perhaps they need more time to rebuild the brand’s engine after many turmoil due to the pandemic, or maybe they are aiming for a new way of operating that does not depend too much on the general schedule of the time week. Page.
Perhaps only at New York Fashion Week can we witness such diverse body, skin color, and age beauty. Most of the shows featured plus-size models, along with black, Asian-American models.
For fashion fans in Vietnam, the most memorable highlight is probably Peter Do’s first runway collection after 3 years of operating the brand with his associates and having made a significant mark at the awards. major awards such as LVMH Prize and CFDA Awards. Named “Home”, the collection is an irreplaceable tribute of Peter to his mother, to his grandmother and to his homeland Vietnam. The fashion column of the New York Times has commented that Peter Do is one of New York’s most remarkable young talented designers.
MILAN FASHION WEEK 2022 IS FILLED WITH CATWALKS OF GENERATIONS OF CULT BEAUTIES
YOUNG CREATIVE BEATS IN LONDON
London Fashion Week in the absence of star names such as Burberry, JW Anderson and Victoria Beckham has become a more open stage for young brands and designers. Both Burberry, JW Anderson and Victoria Beckham still released new collections through look book photos and videos afterwards.
London has always been interesting with its informal creative space, where designers have many opportunities to express their views in fashion and also in social issues. Women designers are especially prominent this season with their many interpretations of femininity that are full of personality but also very personal. Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard have just spent a special time in the role of mothers, bringing their experiences and perspectives into inspiration with maternal emotions in their collection.
London is also where the message of feminism is addressed in a direct and urgent way. Yuhan Wang expressed her frustration and integrated the message of women’s rights to be protected through her signature designs and accessories.
Meanwhile, Nensi Dojaka (the female designer who has just received the top prize of the LVMH Prize 2021), Supriya Lele and Charlotte Knowles together bring new definitions of “sexy” with “sexy” designs that are not unobtrusive, bold in a subtle feminine way.
London is also where Erdem celebrated 15 years of his fashion career and Richard Quinn took social media by storm about the originality of the designs in the new collection.
MILAN IS SEXY AND FLASHY
If in London, sexy sexy looks are suggested subtly, then in Milan, the girls are ready to show off their body curves confidently and extremely liberally. Milan Fashion Week begins and ends with two good collaborations between Miccia Prada and Raf Simons for Prada and Versace and Fendi for Fendace. The story of huge “collab” projects is still continued and pushed to the climax.
MILAN FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2022: SEXY AND DARING LIKE THE 2000S
For their first IRL show since Raf Simons joined the Prada family, the duo chose to show the same collection in two different locations – Shanghai and Milan – at the same time. Large electronic screens seem to blur the conventional boundaries of geography and time.
Prada’s definition of “sexy” is somewhat more discreet than the suggestions of Versace or Missoni when the body curves are boldly shown without hesitation. Identifiers tied to the brand’s history and heritage are unmistakable keynotes in new mixes, especially when the creative directors of two long-standing Italian brands swap places. as in the Fendace BST . Donatella Versace said that she joined this project purely because of her love for Kim Jones and the Fendi family.
At Roberto Cavalli and Blumarine, exaggerated leopard prints, low rise denim pants, deep slits or high slit dresses once again make millennials nostalgic for the heyday of Y2K pop culture and its reach. the influence of pop princesses like Britney Spears , Christina Aguilera…
Vietnamese fashion fans are once again filled with pride when they see a familiar face on the catwalk of Dolce & Gabbana: Dahan Phuong Oanh. After appearing in the advertising campaign for Gucci Diana handbags , Dahan proved once again that she is ready for bigger, more professional opportunities and playing fields.
VIETNAMESE MODEL DAHAN PHUONG OANH CONFIDENTLY WALKS ON THE DOLCE & GABBANA CATWALK SPRING-SUMMER 2022
BEAUTIFUL PARIS FULL OF NOSTALGIA
Paris has always been the longest end of the fashion month, where all editors, buyers, retailers, showrooms give the highest priority and focus. In addition to big names not to be missed such as Chanel , Louis Vuitton , Dior… Paris this season also marks the official launch show of creative directors taking office during the epidemic season. Gabriella Hearst officially launched with the second collection for Chloé on the banks of the Seine. At Givenchy, Mathew Williams took the stage and sped up his preparations for the upcoming haute couture collection with an elaborate catwalk and designs that remind you of Givenchy under Ricardo Tisci.
Rick Owens, Saint Laurent and Valentino also brought the show back to Paris. Maria Grazia Chiuri finds inspiration from Marc Bohan’s collections for Dior in the 60s. Virginie Viard brings to life the jubilant atmosphere of the 90s , the golden age of first-generation supermodels. Olivier Rousteing celebrated his 10-year career at Balmain with a monumental music festival, the appearance of a super model that could not be more “top” including Naomi Campbell , Carla Bruni … but the main fashion designers could not. easier to forget.
The last show in Paris was goodbye to Israeli-born designer Alber Elbaz . Hundreds of guests including the First Lady of France looked back at the legacy that Alber left after more than 15 years in Lanvin and the fledgling brand AZ Factory just had time to launch 1 collection. 45 designers from iconic names like Rei Kawakubo, Giorgio Armani, Dries van Noten to young designers like Thebe Magugu have come together to honor Alber Elbaz’s talent, soul, and love through their designs. Costume design was inspired by him.
LOVE BRINGS LOVE: A TOUCHING SHOW IN TRIBUTE TO FASHION LEGEND ALBER ELBAZ
If you ask, what designs, ideas in Paris promise to bring a desirable change to fashion in the future? For me, maybe it’s bags made entirely of artificial leather from Stella McCartney ‘s lab-grown mushrooms ; Or maybe experiments with form, Jonathan Anderson’s new interpretation of Loewe; Or how Demna Gvasalia continues to challenge the conventional notion of a fashion show. The televised red carpet event was the catwalk for new designs, and the finale was a special episode of The Simpsons x Balenciaga.
Or maybe, the solution to the future requires us to question frankly, and fight even more fiercely, as the protesters suddenly showed up at the end of the Louis show. Vuitton with banners and messages is not new but still very contemplative.